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DOI: 10.1055/s-0035-1556177
Selection of prospective Ficus species and development of novel multifunctional zeta fractions for personal care
Underexplored potential of diverse Moraceae plant family was investigated by combination of phylogenetic relatedness analysis and novel Zeta Fraction technology. F. benghalensis, F. elastica, F. microcarpa, F. carica, and F. trigonata were selected amongst over 800 species. Zeta Fraction technology was utilized to obtain multifunctional bioactive ingredients (Zeta Fractions) from living leaves of selected Ficus spp. as described in PCT WO2012033989, US 20140199419, US20130243710, and US20130323339. These fractions were analyzed by LC-UV, LC-MS, ToF/MS, and tested for in vitro activities related to skin aging, irritation, inflammation, and hyperpigmentation. Compared to respective conventional extracts, these fractions contained a greater variety of compounds and demonstrated superior activities, safety, aesthetics and excellent sustainability. Zeta Fraction from F. benghalensis was free of proteins and pheophorbides, showed outstanding activity in selected assays, and is currently used in numerous multifunctional skin and hair care beauty products worldwide. Zeta Fractions from other Ficus spp. demonstrated specific activities particularly suited for mitigation of hyperpigmentation (F. carica) and inflammation (F. microcarpa). Development of these ingredients demonstrates how solvent-free Zeta Fraction technology, based on Density Functional Theory, isolates plant intracellular components in a reproducible and sustainable process. This technology protects integrity of molecular architecture in living cells, produces fractions capable of targeting multiple biological pathways with single ingredient, improves safety by removing the contaminants of concern, and results in minimal environmental impact and no waste. In addition to providing opportunities for product differentiation and improved aesthetics, Zeta Fraction technology is a powerful tool for exploring and discovering new bioactive compounds from plants.